Dreamers

This hood buttoned under the collar and stopped a few inches back from the center front - it is not supposed to close. It has a dart at the back of the crown and a topstitched front facing for structure. The original was unlined and buttoned under the collar.

Pieces:
- Hood - Seams are topstitched open and trimmed close to the topstitching.
- Button edge reinforcement - not needed if you are sewing it in. Topstitched just inside both edges. The front edge did not have seam allowance and was cut about 1/4" / 5mm shy of the finished front edge of the hood. This raw edge was covered by the facing. The long edge was left raw and secured with topstitching.
- Front facing - this was interfaced and topstitched. The center top is cut shorter than the hood itself to allow for turn of cloth. Three rows of topstitching about 0.5in / 1cm apart around the whole front edge. The long edge was left raw and secured with topstitching.
- Kidney - this was way too small for me and I did not reproduce it when I used this pattern on a new coat. Buttons onto the side and can be swung down and buttoned across the throat in bad weather.

Order of operations:
1. Sew up the dart, press open, topstitch, trim seam allowance.
2. Join halves of the hood together along the center back/top seam. Press open and topstitch.
3. Button reinforcement, if using: join halves at center back. Sew to bottom edge of hood and turn in, press for a crisp edge. Topstitch along both edges of the reinforcement. Sew button holes through both layers as marked.
4. Front facing: interface both pieces. Join halves at center top. Stitch to front of hood and turn in, press for a crisp edge. Evenly space 3 rows of topstitching around the front edge, about 1/2” / 1cm apart.
5. Hood!
6.1 Option: buttoned in - sew buttons to the neck of the coat, under the collar, matching button hole placement. For thick wool, use shanked buttons or create a thread shank.
6.2 Option: sewn in - Sew into neck, with or without collar as desired.

( Images )